In April, I did a 4 day solo backpack through the Grand Canyon.   I chose the Hermit Trail for its reputation of being rough, scenic, and uncrowded.   It was all three.   On a cold morning at 7000 feet, I took the bus to the end of the road at Hermit’s Rest, hoisted my too-heavy backpack and started down the trail.

All of the trails down are steep and the Hermit route is one of only 4 rocky, winding routes down the escarpment from the Rim to the plateau above the river. The route follows switchbacks down a side valley.   The upper part of the trail had seen a lot of work in pioneer days, but no trail work has been done on this unmaintained trail for 80 years.  Pinon pine and junipers dotted the higher hillsides.   At 6600 feet, the day was cool, but it grew steadily warmer with each drop in elevation.

After 1.5 miles a junction is reached with the Waldron Trail.   The Hermit Trail bears right toward the Canyon.   In another 0.3 miles, another junction is reached, this time with the Boucher-Dripping Springs Trail.   We continue right following the red-hued hanging valley of Hermit Creek.   The first third of the trail was in fairly good shape.

At 2.3 miles a shelter sits next to the trail and a spring drips into a metal tub.   In a desert-like environment, even Santa Maria Spring is a milestone.  By this time, the temperature had reached 80 degree F and a drink of filtered water from this open tub was refreshing.    I was carrying lots of water, but was trying to conserve my supplies.   The tub didn’t seem too appealing, but I forced myself to drink through my Lifestraw.

Beyond the Springs, the Canyon is still a long ways down and the trail started a 3 mile rocky traverse through the Supai Formation.   No way down the cliffs could be seen, and the trail continued to wind along the cliffs to the north side, with no sense of a way down the cliffs.

Up and down, skirting chutes, climbing over slides, the trail worked its way eventually down to Lookout Point and then there were glimpses of the river far below.

To the left of the mesa, the trail descends steeply down the Cathedral Steps, a series of limestone ledges.    At the bottom, the route becomes gravelly and loose, requiring caution.   I slid out onto the ground twice.   This section was very slow and hot.   The backpack seemed heavier after 7 miles,   Glimpses of the river below could be seen and after 5 and a half hours, the trail finally dropped down to the plateau.   The benchlands above the river were covered in Mormon tea, blackbrush, and cactus.  At a junction with the Tonto Trail, I turned west and with weary legs hiked another 0.8 miles to the Herrmit Creek Campsite, perched on a rocky bench above the creek.  With the pack off, I looked back up toward the rim.

The hike is 8 miles and is very rough.   It takes about 6 hours with a full pack.    I found it hot and exposed, even in mid-April.   Managing your water is essential.   I carried too much since there was good water in Hermit Creek, although you can’t get to the water until the campground.   The views were impressive the whole way.   Wildflowers were numerous and varied.   Vultures and hawks flew overhead and lizards darted into rocks, but there was hardly any people in this corner of the park over the 8 mile journey.   By dusk, there was about 10 people in the campsite, all there for one night only, on their way east or west on a multi-day backpack.   I liked Hermit Campground.   The water in the perennial creek was cool and clear.  Many of the campsites were private with big red sandstone boulders surrounding the tent pads.   It would be a superb route for a day hike, but it is just too far to down and back.   The elevation drop is about 4000 feet (8000 feet return).   As the first leg of a loop, it was demanding, but equally rewarding.   Going up would be a challenge, but I was heading east the next day across the Tonto Trail.