Wapta Traverse (3) – Diablaret Ridge and Balfour Col
With Balfour Hut as basecamp, an interesting ski is to travel west through Balfour Pass, rounding Mount Balfour on the north side. Follow the moraines and then ascend Diablaret Glacier up to the high ridge on the west side of Balfour. This is a particularly interesting side route for several reasons. First, it offers a wide view of the Yoho Valley and the mountains to the west side – the Wapta, Isolated Peak, Kiwetinok, des Poilus, and the Presidents. We have been to the Whaleback many times and looked over from the opposite direction:
Diablaret Ridge is on the right, Balfour in the middle and Trolltinder is on the right, seen from the top of Twin Falls. The other reason to ascend Diablaret Glacier is that the slope is perfect for telemark turns all the way down to Balfour Pass.
If your goal is to complete the Wapta Traverse you have to climb up onto Balfour Mountain. We found the lower slopes quite manageable, but to get to the High Col, you have to climb under the great ice fall on Balfour Mountain. This photo was taken back when we used film:
To crest the High Col, climb along the east side of Mount Balfour up the glacier, watching for crevasses. You will be under the face of Balfour and cornices breaking off are always a danger. Get an early start and proceed quickly up to the middle icefall, staying on the left side. This is the most dangerous part of the whole route. The area is broken, crevassed, and littered with avalanche debris. Once past the icefall, the rest of the climb is smooth and you can crest the col at 9750 feet. The route is obvious down the Daly Glacier. We used to have to ski for 8 hours all the way to the TransCanada Highway, but there is now a hut on the northwest shoulder of the mountain. The Scott Duncan Hut sleeps 12 and is well-equipped. From the hut, proceed to the Niles-Daly Col, then down the long downhill slopes (bear west) toward the treeline, working your way to Sherbrooke Lake, across the lake, and then out the hiking route to the TCH next to West Louise Lodge.
This route is challenging and not a great choice with poor visibility or adverse conditions. We were thwarted from crossing Balfour High Col once and spent two days touring the area before turning back to Bow Hut. But if the conditions are right, this is the route to complete the Wapta Traverse, north to south.